Rain or Shine

By Drew McWhirter

Yesterday was the big turning point of this mission. After spending 2 days at Kure Atoll (Hōlanikū), the NW tip of the archipelago, the most northerly atoll in the world, we have turned back East and are making our way back to Honolulu. It is an incredible experience to travel this far North and West up the archipelago and observe the changes in the ocean and air. Most noticeable to me is the water temperature. Hōlanikū sits at 28 degrees North and the water is frigid compared to 21 degrees latitude of Oʻahu. Transiting into the atoll on the small boats in the early morning, the spray from the wind chop cuts through the not-so-waterproof jacket and stings the skin.

This is my second voyage in Papahānaumokuākea, the first being on the September 2018 NOAA led marine debris mission. There is a stark contrast in the elements experienced between that early fall mission and this early spring mission, and had I known better I would have come prepared with more layers of insulation! Furthermore, the weather really beat us down on the first half of the mission with high winds and rain squalls nearly every day. However, Kure was our turquoise oasis, a true paradise in the middle of the North Pacific. The water was cold, but crystal clear and the lagoon waters are so bright blue that they reflect upon the clouds above and turn the clouds turquoise. It certainly strengthens our efforts when we are immersed in such magnificent beauty.

In contrast, our last day at Midway before Kure had higher wind and overcast with squalls. When we took our lunch break its was in the middle of one of the squalls. It was wet and cold and we all turned our backs to the rain, except for Joao. When we asked why he doesn’t turn around too he said, “I would rather be cold with my friends than be cold and isolated”. Sunny or stormy, it’s the team that makes this magic happen and keeps us moving forward removing nets from this pristine environment to keep the wildlife safe.

Today was a transit day, meaning we got a full day of rest and rejuvenation. Tomorrow we arrive at Lisianski Island where we are spending the next 3 days. And the day after we will be at Laysan. That means four ambitious days ahead. So far, each operations day we have remove more debris than the last day. Our load from the 2nd day of Kure, the standing daily record, was 14,500 pounds of purely net. Can we keep the streak alive?? 15,000 pounds tomorrow?

Last time I was at Lisianski, as we were breaking for lunch a baby turtle happened to hatch from its nest behind where we were sitting. It made its long crawl past us down to the water’s edge and we watched it swim away into the ocean for the first time. I am excited to see what amazing wildlife encounters this special island has in store for us this time around. I am hoping to see some dolphins and sharks on the transit into the island. After a full day’s rest and recovery, the team is eager to get back out there and haul some big loads of debris! Look out Lisi, rain or shine, here we come!